Foraging for Black Walnut

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Foraging for Black Walnut with: Russ Cohen

With Russ Cohen

Black Walnut – A Tough Nut To Crack, But Worth It!

The Black Walnut tree (Juglans nigra) is well-known and appreciated over much of the United States. The nuts admittedly present a formidable challenge to process and open, but their unusual and assertive flavor has no counterpart, and you may find it to be well worth the trouble.

Although Black Walnuts are not native to Essex County or Massachusetts – their natural range is to the south and west of here – the trees can be found here and there throughout the region. One place I have seen them is near old farmsteads, where they may have been planted in the erroneous belief that they repelled insects. I have also encountered the trees in thickly-settled residential neighborhoods.

Black Walnut trees tend to leaf out later than most local species, and are hard to recognize when dormant. Unlike Shagbark Hickory’s distinctively shaggy bark, the bark of Black Walnut trees is hard to distinguish from other species. Their pinnately-compound leaves also bear a strong resemblance to those of several other species, like Sumac or Ailanthus. One way to confirm the identity of a tree as a Black Walnut is to “scratch and sniff” the central stem of a leaf. If it’s a Black Walnut, you will notice a spicy aroma, which is identical to the smell of the husks surrounding the nuts. (If the smell is only faintly spicy, chances are that you have encountered a Butternut tree (Juglans cinerea), also known as “White Walnut” because of its lighter-colored wood.)

The main edible product of Black Walnut trees are the ripe nuts, which are in season in this area in October. The nuts are surrounded by a spherical, green husk about 2 1/2 inches in diameter – about the same size and diameter as an old, green tennis ball. (Butternut husks are the same size and shape as a green goose egg.)

Black Walnut trees will often drop some if not all their leaves before their nuts, which makes the nuts easy to spot. Wait until the nuts drop off the tree to harvest, but don’t wait too long, or the squirrels will beat you to them. A typical Black Walnut tree produces dozens if not hundreds of nuts, which won’t all ripen and fall off the tree at the same time, so you can typically gather a bunch of nuts and then return a week or so later to get those that have fallen in the meantime.

One technique to remove the husks is to roll out your gathered nuts on pavement and drive over them several times. The technique I use is simply to stomp on the husks where I find them under the tree, and then roll them around under my shoe to remove the husk. Black Walnut shells are notoriously hard to crack open. The shells are in fact so hard that they are used commercially as an industrial abrasive. While they will break most conventional nut crackers, a vise or hammer works fine.

Black Walnuts have a robust and aromatic flavor, considerably different from and much stronger than the cultivated, store-bought “English” (actually Persian) Walnut. Black Walnuts would not work well in any recipe that requires the nut flavor to fade into the background, because it won’t. (Butternuts have a milder flavor.) On the other hand, Black Walnuts do work in recipes without competing flavors.

Miscellaneous tidbits:
c Black Walnut nut meats are low in saturated fats, high in unsaturated (i.e., healthy) fats, and contain significant amounts of protein, Vitamins A, iron, minerals and fiber.
c Sometimes people make pickles from immature Black Walnuts or Butternuts (e.g., when a strong storm blows them off the trees). If a knitting needle can be pushed through one of the nuts, they are young and tender enough to be pickled.
c Both Black Walnut and Butternut trees contain sap which can be boiled down for syrup (but maple syrup is much tastier).
c The wood of black walnut is dark brown in color, easily worked, and is highly prized by furniture makers, and therefore commands a premium price.

Ingredients

Black Walnut Baklava

You’ll need phyllo dough for this recipe; it usually comes in 1 pound packages and is found in the frozen foods section of most supermarkets and upscale grocery stores. You’ll need to thaw out the dough before using – overnight in the ‘fridge or 5 hours at room temperature. Leave in the box until ready to use. You’ll need a pastry brush, too.

Ingredients:
3 cups of black walnuts
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest (outside peel)
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 pound (two sticks) of butter
1 pound package phyllo dough
1 1/2 tablespoons of whole cloves for this task

For sauce:
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup water
3/4 cup honey
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Zest (outside peel) of one orange, removed in large strips Black Walnut Honey Butter

Ingredients:
2 cups Black Walnut nut meats
3/8 teaspoon salt
3 1/2 tablespoon honey
(Feel free to vary these proportions to suit your taste.)

Instructions

Preheat oven to 325ºF

1. Butter the bottom and sides of a 9”x13” baking pan.
2. Coarsely chop (or finely grind, according to your preference) 3 cups of black walnuts. You might want to lightly toast the nuts first to help bring out their aroma and help retain their crunchiness in the final product.
3. Stir together in a small bowl the sugar, grated lemon zest (outside peel) and ground cinnamon.
4. Melt butter. Roll out the phyllo dough flat on a smooth work surface. Trim half the phyllo into 9”x13” inch sheets, then put the remaining dough back in the package and save for another use.
5. Place two sheets at a time into the bottom of the baking pan, then brush with melted butter. Repeat this twice for a total of six sheets; then sprinkle on top of that half of the chopped nuts and half of the sugar/lemon zest/cinnamon mixture.
6. Lay down another 3 pairs of sheets, brushing each pair with melted butter before putting down the next. Sprinkle over them the remaining nuts and sugar/lemon zest/cinnamon mixture.7. Cover that with all the remaining phyllo sheets (one pair at a time, brushing each pair with melted butter before applying the next). Brush the top with the remaining butter.
8. Using a sharp serrated knife, cut through all the layers to make 2”- wide diamonds or squares (make sure to do this before baking). Pin down each cut corner with a whole clove.
9. Bake at 325ºF for 30 minutes, then reduce oven to 300ºF and continue to bake until the baklava is golden brown, about 30-60 minutes.

For sauce:
1. While baking, combine the sauce ingredients in a saucepan.
2. Bring this mixture to a gentle boil and then simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes.
3. Strain the hot syrup and pour evenly over the baked baklava. Allow to cool completely (at least four hours) to room temperature before serving. For Black Walnut Honey Butter 1. Spread the nut meats on a baking tray and gently roast in a regular or toaster oven at 200º F for 1/2 hour, taking care not to burn or overcook the nut meats.
2. Combine the roasted nut meats, salt and honey in a food processor and blend for several minutes until peanut butter-like in texture. Makes approximately 12 ounces.
3. Serve the nut butter warm to show off its unique fragrance. The aromatic black walnuts, saltiness of the salt and the sweetness of the honey will delight your taste buds with three pleasing flavors at once.

Recipe courtesy of Russ Cohen, "Wild Plants I have Known ... and Eaten," 2004.

Russ Cohen
Professional Wild Food Expert and Environmentalist

Russ is into his fourth decade of leading foraging walks in the Boston area and elsewhere in New England. He received his bachelor's degree in land use planning from Vassar in 1978 and J.D. and M.S. in natural resources degrees from Ohio State University in 1982. He is currently employed as the Rivers Advocate for the Massachusetts Department of Fish and Game. He lives in Arlington, MA with his wife Ellen.

A question he is often asked is "How did you get interested in this subject?" Russ' first formal exposure to edible wild plants occurred while a sophomore at Weston High School, where he enrolled in an "Edible Botany" minicourse offered by the high school biology department. He learned about two dozen edible species that grew around the high school grounds, and the class had a big "feed" at the end of the course. Russ got turned on to the subject, went to the local library and took out every book he could find on the topic, taught himself over fifty more species, and, in his senior year of high school (1974), he taught the Edible Botany class he had taken as a sophomore.

Russ received a "Heritage Hero" award from the Essex National Heritage Commission in 2006 for his foraging writing and programs.
Russ is in his 37th year of teaching courses about wild edibles. Last year, he led three dozen classes/walks from May to October for about two dozen different organizations, including the Massachusetts Audubon Society, The Trustees of Reservations and the Appalachian Mountain Club. These foraging programs were held at various outdoor locations throughout New England, ranging from two-hour evening walks in the city and suburbs to lengthier explorations in the mountains and along the seacoast. During the "off-season", Russ writes articles on foraging and gives slide presentations featuring many of his favorite edible wild plants and mushrooms found in New England. Russ' foraging book, Wild Plants I Have Known...and Eaten (see link below), came out in June of 2004 and is now in its third printing.

Over the years, Russ and his wife Ellen have hosted eight "Harvest Parties" for their friends, for which they prepared several dozen dishes (appetizers, soups, salads, main courses, desserts, condiments, and hot and cold beverages), all utilizing wild ingredients.

Consult his web site for up to date lectures and tours. You can see his tour at the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA on Saturday, October 9th. Google or go to http://www.pem.org/calendar/event/348-edible_art for more details.

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